Frequently Asked Questions - FAQ’s
What separates you from other inspectors?
There’s a lot of inspectors to choose from, many are great and very competent. My focus is being very detailed with the inspection itself and reporting the detailed condition of the home. I make every effort to access difficult to reach areas and ensure my physical condition allows it, as many times areas within attics and crawl spaces are tight to fit within. Because some areas are difficult to access, often times there issues are revealed simply because no one has been able to and/or willing to access these areas.
What kind of inspection tools do you use?
FLIR - i6 Thermal Imaging Camera
Protimeter Survey Master Moisture Meter
Bachrach - CO Detector
Little Giant Ladder -
HeadLamp and Ventilator
Who arranges property entry with the seller for a buyer’s inspection?
I’ll arrange property entry with the seller. 98% of the time this just involves requesting a time/date with an app on my mobile phone (provided the home is listed on the MLS). Sometimes I’ll need to contact the seller or the seller’s agent. In any case, I’ll arrange the property and follow up with the buyer via text message or email with confirmation.
What’s inspected for a Truth-in-Sale of Housing (TISH) inspection?
How long does an inspection take?
A buyer’s inspection typically takes around 2 1/2 - 3 hours to complete. This is based on an average single family home up to around 2500 square feet. Inspections of condos & town homes take a little less time due to less exterior inspection items. Larger homes and homes with additional “out-buildings” or additional garages can take many hours to inspection. In any case, I ensure enough time is booked at the property to allow proper inspection and to walk-through to discuss my findings.
Can I be present for the inspection?
Yes, absolutely. At most buyer’s inspections, the buyer(s) and often times their Real Estate agent arrive towards the end of the inspection and we walk through the home together to review my findings & answer any questions. Some buyer’s want to be present for the some or all of the actual inspection process and that’s great too. However, when buyers are present during the actual inspection it’s important that I stay within my inspection process to ensure I don’t miss anything (I do each inspection with the same methodology). In these situations I’ll break up the inspection into parts. For example; I’ll inspect the exterior and then review my findings with the buyer(s), then do the same with the interior/attic and mechanical system, etc… This seams to keep me within the methodology of my inspection process and also keep the buyer engaged during the process.
Should I test my home for radon?
If the home has not been tested or hasn’t been tested in the last 2 years you should have the home tested for radon. Radon is the second leading cause of lung related cancer after smoking. If radon levels are over 4.0 pCi/l, a radon mitigation system installation is recommended. These systems are not terribly expensive (usually $1200 - $1800), but are very effective in reducing radon levels. Radon licensing is now required for radon measurement professionals (effective 1/1/19) in MN. I’m licensed and use continuous radon monitors that allow for 48 hour testing that is critical for inspection contingency periods.
When do I get my inspection report?
Inspections reports are emailed the same day as the inspection. For afternoon inspection appointments, this sometimes means you’ll receive your report later in the evening (10pm - 11pm).
What type of payment do you accept?
I accept cash, check & credit or debit card. Checks are payable to Gadget Home Inspections. I’m also able to send invoices electronically. This is important if customers are not onsite at time of inspection. Payment is either due at time of inspection or in cases where the client is not onsite - the payment is due prior to delivery of the completed inspection report.
How long have you been performing home inspections?
I’ve been inspecting homes since 2008. I’ve inspected 1000’s of home in that time. I really enjoy inspecting homes because you never know what you’ll see. Weird installations of everything from the last 140 - 150 years. Sometimes I’ll come across very old newspapers in attics. It’s not boring on the inspection circuit. Also, building standards are ever changing and it’s great to be able to educate the public on how some of these changes are applicable to them.
What other types of inspections should I consider for my home?
The most important inspections that I do not perform are sewer line and chimney inspections. Both inspections require a telescoping cameras to evaluate the interior of the sewer line or chimney.
Sewer line inspections on older homes can uncover tree root entry, backups and pipe damage. Sewer line repairs tend to be very expensive due to the equipment needed to unearth the sewer line. One can expect to pay $150 - $225 for a sewer line inspection. The return on investment here is worth it.
Chimney inspections are equally important on wood burning fireplaces. Due to the length and design of many fireplaces and their chimney flue pipes often times I cannot see the continuity of the chimney flue. There can be soot buildup that requires cleaning to prevent/reduce the risk of a chimney fire or the flue could be damaged. A damaged flue pipe can cost several thousands dollars to repair. These inspections are usually $150+ per chimney. ROI here is worth it from a safety and cost perspective.
I’m a first time buyer, will do you spend more time explaining things to us?
Yes, absolutely. I’ll go over where main water, gas and electrical shut-offs are, as well as, main sewer clean outs and other mechanical items. Also, it’s important to keep everything in perspective. Often times there’s a large list of recommendations based on my findings. The key is to identify the most important items, these are usually the most costly items to repair or safety related items.